Handloom weavers in Thirubhuvanam hit by rising price of zari thread

The rising cost of zari (gold thread) and high levels of taxation have hit the production of Thirubhuvanam’s famed handloom silk saris, as more weavers look for alternative employment to make ends meet.

The Thirubhuvanam sari is known for its use of gold thread and high quality silk that creates a soft and pliable garment. It is considered unique as the both the section for draping (body) and loose end (pallu) of the sari are woven in the same warp.

“A ‘mark’ of zari thread (four spools with a net weight of 240 grams), used to cost ₹13,000 last year. Today, its price has shot up to ₹30,000. Though we need zari for our sari designs, the high cost is affecting our work, and making it unprofitable,” N.B. Nagenthiran, a weaver from Thirubhuvanam and the state secretary of Tamil Nadu Handloom Weavers Association (CITU), told The Hindu.

Handloom weavers across Thirubhuvanam (Thanjavur district), Arani (Salem) and Kancheepuram have all been affected by the high zari cost in recent months.

“We are unable to complete our orders on time, as the zari stock can only be bought sporadically. The levying of Goods and Services Tax (GST) at several levels of production has added to our woes,” said the veteran weaver.

As a result, the minimum cost of a Thirubhuvanam silk sari is pegged upwards of ₹8,000 these days. “Our busiest periods are dictated by the auspicious wedding season; however customers will have to shell out at least ₹50,000 for a heavily zari embellished sari,” he said.

A woman prepares silk thread for weaving in a traditional handloom unit in Thirubhuvanam.
| Photo Credit:
VENGADESH R

The livelihood of over 1,000 weavers belonging to the Thirubuvanam Silk Handloom Weavers’ Cooperative Production and Sale Society (Thico Silks) is said to be in dire straits due to the inflationary economics.

The Assistant Director of Handlooms, Kumbakonam said that financial and marketing support was being extended to weavers in Thirubhuvanam. “We have introduced several initiatives to promote the sale of Thirubhuvanam silk saris, such as the ‘Illam Thedi Pattu’ scheme, a mobile vending service where customers can request to see the stock in the comfort of their homes. We are also trying to add innovative designs according to the market trends. The stock will be sold through sales promotions,” the official said.

A silk weaver crafts a vibrant saree on a handloom in Thirubhuvanam.
| Photo Credit:
VENGADESH R