Bihari food fest in Hyderabad-beyond litti chokha

Shubhra Singh’s Beloved Bihar – An Heirloom Feast from Balua Deorhi proves that Bihari food extends beyond litti chokha, sattu ka paratha and sattu ka sherbet. The pop-up at Kanak, Trident Hyderabad, on till September 25, rethinks the predictable conversation around Bihari cuisine, bringing flavours from Magadh, Nalanda, Mithila and Anga.

For the festival, Shubhra brings recipes from her ancestral village, Balua. She prefers not to be called a chef, and says her knowledge of the region’s flavours and ingredients comes from growing up around food. Her family frequently hosted prominent guests, and as a child she watched the elaborate preparations that went into feeding them well.

The welcome drink, sattu ka sherbet, was no ordinary version: take a sip and it was pani puri meets sattu. The litti chokha was equally assured, with perfectly cooked litti and a generously seasoned sattu filling. The chokhas included aloo, tomato and baingan bharta. There was also a pleasing lack of commercial polish: generous tadkas, the signature red colour and little last-minute flourishes such as a lone mint leaf or flower.

Among the starters, the aloo-parval chop and drumstick kebab stood out more than the non-vegetarian kebabs. Shubhra’s tasting platter moved through a range of flavours: dal, Mithilanchal rohu, a slightly tangy fish curry thick with mustard and methi, Bihari mirchi chicken, a creamy pepper chicken, and peppery quail curry. The dal puri paired well with the curries, although I preferred it on its own. There was also a seven-flour roti for those looking for a lighter option.

A curated thali for trial by Shubhra at Kanak. The fest is ala carte and not a thali.
| Photo Credit:
Prabailka M Borah

The vegetarian highlight was the kathal ki nihari. Shubhra said, “My effort is to show variety which Bihari cuisine can offer. We love our staples, but let’ not restrict the cuisine to a handful of dishes.”

Then came the Katarni gosht pulao, made with fragrant Katarni rice and mutton. Shubhra is particular about calling it a pulao, not a biryani. Prepared traditionally, the mutton becomes exceptionally tender while the rice absorbs its flavour.

The exclusive menu is available at Kanak, Trident Hyderabad, till September 25, for lunch from 12.30pm to 3pm and dinner from 7pm to 11pm.