Indian cheese makers come together in Chennai to champion the country’s artisanal cheese

Cheese as far as the eye could see. With 45 cheese samples from 20 cheesemakers across India, it was a great way to spend a Saturday, at the first event of the Indian Artisanal Cheese Association hosted at The Farm, Semmencheri.

Kalari (mixed milk and whey-based cheese) travelling from Kashmir, to Balmithai Brunost (toffee-like whey cheese) from Bazpur, Uttarakhand, Bandel from Bengal to spreadable cheese redolent with pungent garlic or the firm Tomme de Semmencheri, there was a cornucopia of soft, semi-hard and hard cheese from across the country. There was barely an inch to spare on the two large cheese tables, piled high with condiments like roasted honey almonds, sharp mustard, fig preserve,crackers, bread and other crudité. 

Spread of cheese at the event
| Photo Credit:
Vincy Victor

India is the world’s largest producer of milk, yet how much do we really know about artisanal Indian cheese? First things first, what is artisanal Indian cheese? Multi hyphenate Mansi Jasani, founder, The Bombay Cheese Collective, and one of the seven founder directors of IACA, says the terroir (complete natural environment and human traditions that shape the distinct taste and character of an agricultural product) makes the cheese. “We go to the source- keeping the animal at the center, the land, its feed, the season and those collectively define how the cheese will turn out. This is vastly different from industrially made commercial cheese where the end product is defined and the process is tailored from start to finish to meet that standard.”

The other founder directors are a motley crew of affineurs ( cheese makers), cheesemongers and cheese consultants – Arul Futnani (The Farm, Chennai), Namrata Sundaresan (Käse, Chennai), Debarati Nandee Laederich (Amiksa, Himachal Pradesh), Mausam Narang (Elephtheria Cheese, Mumbai), Mukund Naidu (Artisan and Gourmet, Bengaluru) and Hemangini Sinha( Khet se Plate, Ahmedabad). They and a host of other cheesemakers were in attendance,  meeting and greeting fellow cheese lovers, as well as food and beverage industry leaders.

Diana Sadri, second generation cheesemaker from ABC Farms, Pune, (started in 1976 by her father Sobrab Chinoy), one of the oldest cheesemakers in the country, says the Indian palate is slowly changing. “ Earlier, cheese was consumed at a restaurant on a pizza or in a baked dish. Today, people come into our store specially to buy cheese and they want to know how it’s made and are looking for higher protein content so they pick a parmesan or will choose a flavoured cheese for a grazing board like a pepper gouda, edam with basil and sundried tomato or chilli cheese.” 

Cheese from The Farm
| Photo Credit:
Vincy Victor

Monika Kapoor Sarkhel, founder Mira Maia Micro Creamery based in New Delhi, was taking around plates of freshly toasted Kalari, stretchy like mozzarella yet with a buttery smoothness and grassy notes. Getting people to try this Kashmiri delicacy and talking about its unique process is worth the trouble it takes families to make it in Udhampur, Jammu and Kashmir and ship it. “We mix cow, buffalo, sheep and goat milk and add two day old fermented whey to it, after bringing it to 65-70 degrees Celsius. So without rennet , you get this soft cheese that’s best consumed warm with a dash of hot sauce. We wrap it with banana leaves and cracked this way to keep it shelf stable and ship it across India,” she explains. 

Tower of cheese
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

For AICA, cheese advocacy is central to its foundation. “ IACA is not about creating an association with  a calendar of events. It’s about building the infrastructure that this industry needs — better standards, knowledge sharing,  better conversations around milk and dairy, and a platform that can represent Indian cheese both here and internationally,” concludes Namrata Sundaresan. 

For membership to this association log on to indianartisanalcheeseassociation.com