A sea of grief, faith and ritual: thousands join Muharram procession in Hyderabad’s Old City

Draped in black, thousands thronged the lanes and streets of Hyderabad’s Old City on Sunday, joining the historic Muharram juloos that marks Ashura, the 10th day of the Islamic month of Muharram. It was a poignant commemoration of the martyrdom of Hazrat Imam Hussain, grandson of Prophet Muhammed.

The juloos commenced shortly after 1 pm from the Bibi Ka Alawa in Dabeerpura, a centuries-old mourning house regarded as one of Telangana’s most significant centres of devotion of the Shia community. Inside the alawa, an ocean of zaireen — visitors from across the State and other parts of the country — gathered in reverence as they viewed the alam.

The alam this year was carried atop an elephant, Lakshmi, brought from Karnataka after delays in sourcing an elephant from Rajasthan due to concerns raised by the Forest Department. Bedecked, Lakshmi trudged steadily through the crowd as mourners surrounded it, striking their bare chests in matam, while others engaged in khooni matam, a form of self-flagellation that leads to bloodletting. These acts were performed as symbolic expressions of collective grief for the martyrs of Karbala.

Marsiyas (elegies) echoed through the streets over loudspeakers, blending with the rhythmic beating of hands on torsos, and the clanging of blades like a jangling set of large keys, used in khooni matam. Streams of men, their bodies streaked with blood, and backs with small lacerations, walked and were cleaned with sprays of water.

The juloos reached the Charminar around 4.30 p.m. It drew large crowds of onlookers who gathered along southern parts of the Old City, including Moghalpura, and they sought to get closer from near the gates of Mecca Masjid, and the bustling lanes of Laad Bazaar. People from various sects of the Muslim community, along with members of other faiths, were also seen. Azmet Jah, the titular 9th Nizam, was also present.

Traffic diversions were implemented across several key points such as Etebar Chowk, Purani Haveli, Gulzar House, Salarjung Rotary, Chaderghat Bridge and Nayapul to accommodate the surge of mourners. Snarls were seen near Khilwat, Hussaini Alam, Moghalpura, and the vicinity of the old Charminar Bus Station, as streams of pedestrians and processional groups continued to pour in.

Police presence was visibly heightened along the route, with the Hyderabad City Police deploying additional personnel to ensure smooth conduct of the rituals. In keeping with tradition, Police Commissioner C.V. Anand paid his respects to the alam. He was accompanied by Deputy Commissioner of Police Sneha Mehra.

Amid the dense, moving crowds, All India Majlis-e-Ittehadul Muslimeen legislator Mirza Riyaz-ul-Hasan Effendi was seen personally helping manage the throng, while volunteers from various Shia organisations worked tirelessly to help the mourners and control the crown. As dusk approached, the juloos culminated at Masjid-e-Ilahi.