To try Assamese food in Hyderabad, head to Aakhol

The story of Aakhol began in a home kitchen. Meaning kitchen in Assamese, Aakhol recently opened in Kokapet and celebrates Assamese cuisine in a 50-seater restaurant that wears its roots proudly.

The interiors recreate the look of traditional Assamese homes, with partitioned ceilings, warm beige walls and black timber grids. Bamboo and cane artefacts that are integral to rural Assamese life adorn the walls — from the colourful jaapi to the jakoi-khaloi (a bamboo fishing scoop) and saloni. A showcase displaying books and a xorai (traditional offering tray) completes the nostalgic feel of an Assamese drawing room.

The restaurant grew out of Alpaxee Kashyap’s home kitchen, where she (not a trained chef) and her cook, Jinti Rajbongshi, recreated the flavours of Assam using locally available ingredients. As word spread and demand grew, the home kitchen naturally evolved into a full-fledged restaurant that can accomodate 85 guests.

The thali at Aakhol
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

The star of the menu is undoubtedly the Assamese thali. The vegetarian spread includes staples such as khaar, xaak bhaji (stir-fried greens), matir dal (split black gram), koldil bhaja (banana flower), kol posola bhaja (banana stem), alu pitika, a red lentil chutney and payoxh (kheer) for dessert.

But do not mistake Aakhol for a vegetarian restaurant. The menu also features mutton curry, fish tenga, sesame chicken, maas pitika (mashed fish), muri ghanto and several traditional pork preparations.

What sets Aakhol apart is its refusal to dilute Assamese flavours for local palates. “We celebrate the understated elegance of Assamese cuisine through subtle spices and traditional cooking methods like steaming and boiling,” says Alpaxee. “Mustard oil, green chillies and seasonal produce do the heavy lifting. Every ingredient has a purpose without overpowering the dish.” She points to the black chicken, coloured by black sesame rather than spices, and the boiled fish with bamboo shoot, both deceptively simple dishes that reveal surprising depth.

The verdict

Chicken fry with banana flower
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

I sampled the vegetarian thali along with a few à la carte dishes. The boiled fish was a touch too runny, which muted its flavours, while the sesame chicken impressed despite the slightly coarse texture of the sesame paste. If you are not particularly fond of chicken neck or rib pieces, it’s worth mentioning this in advance, as those cuts are included in the curries here, atleast that’s what I experienced.

The fish tenga was excellent, as were the vegetarian dishes, especially the fresh lentil chutney and the comforting pitikas. Aakhol makes it a point to include xaak bhaji (green leafy dry preparation) I was also served patot diya maas, which leaned closer to Bengali fish paturi than the Assamese original. Traditionally, the dish uses small freshwater fish such as puthi or mourala and does not rely on mustard paste. That said, Bengali culinary influences are common in many Assamese homes, particularly for celebratory meals, making this interpretation familiar rather than out of place.

The mutton curry stood out for its tender meat and well-balanced gravy, but the fish head khar was overwhelmingly fishy, making it difficult to enjoy beyond a bite. As an Assamese, I was especially looking forward to the khar fish — a dish I rarely get to eat unless I cook it myself — and it did not disappoint. One thing to note: if you are sensitive to baking soda, it is worth checking whether the restaurant uses traditional natural khar extract or baking soda in its preparation.

At Aakhol the welcome drink is thekera sherbet (a drink prepared from kokum extract).

Desserts include payoxh made with either black or white rice, along with the not-so-Assamese patishapta, a favourite carried over from Alpaxee’s home kitchen.

A meal for two costs around ₹1,500. Aakhol is open for lunch and dinner.