“I am a third generation Hakka Chinese and my grandfather came from China,” says chef Catherin Lim as she joins in the conversation at The Residency’s Chin Chin where she is currently hosting a Hakka pop up. She introduces us to Tangra chilli chicken wings. The smoky, juicy wings come with a sizzling glaze. “It has lemon, honey, pepper, and soy sauce lending the chatpata edge. Chinatown in Kolkata is called Tangra and hence the name,” says Catherine, who is based at Chinatown in Kolkata.
Originating from the nomadic Hakka people of China, Hakka cuisine is rooted in simple, home-style preparations. “Over a period of time, it has evolved as Indo-Chinese. Hakka literally means guest. We moved from one region in China to another because of civil strife. Most of us are now settled in Meizu in China and spread across India, Mauritius, Zimbabwe, Taiwan, Hong Kong,” explains Catherine.
The pop-up brings a curated menu that showcases global Hakka cuisine, largely influenced by the region they settled in, like Hong Kong and Taiwan. For example, typhoon shelter prawns, aromatic fried prawns with garlic and shallots. “The shrimp is from Hong Kong. The preparation is boatman style, similar to how fishermen cook fresh catch. It’s like beer food, where they sip the drink on the streets and bite into the shrimps. When you enjoy the dish, you also get a peek into the culture.”
The Xinjiang mutton flavoured with chef’s cumin-Sichuan pepper spice mix and garlic and coriander, is a popular dish from the northern region of China, a part of the Silk Route that dealt with cumin trade.
As we talk, we also try the tomato soup. It is hearty and light and has a crunch from zha cai or mustard tuber, a Sichuanese pickle. “We have used fermented and pickled mustard stem that lends a crunchy, spicy, sour, and umami undertone to the dish,” says Catherine adding that Hakka cuisine is considered the country cousin of Cantonese cuisine. “Whatever the Hakkas cook, the Cantonese refined it and made it prettier. When we make whole meat, they just chopped it up as meat mousse. Hakkas are rustic and the food is happy and soulful, made at home with lots of soy and fermented products. We make our own fermented mustard greens, cured meats, lapchong, and Chinese bacon.”
Hakka yam Abacus beads
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Special Arrangement
Over plates of Hakka yam abacus beads, made with yam and corn starch and shaped like beads in the Chinese abacus, she explains the significance of the dish. The dumplings are chewy, tender, and satisfying. “It is eaten during the Chinese New Year as abacus signifies advent of wealth. Also, Hakkas were always on the move and had to work doubly hard to earn a living. So, when the men went out to work in the fields, the women would send this for lunch. It’s starch, so it is filling. And they also wish the men to have a good harvest and bring lots of money,” she explains as we enjoy sticky rice with a side of tofu gravy cooked in fermented black beans sauce and leeks.
Based on the feedback, some of the dishes maybe added to the regular menu. “Since it’s a legacy restaurant, expectations are high. We keep offering them something new like the Hakka culinary experience. Though we already have lamb made in black bean sauce, the tofu variant at the pop up with leeks, and ginger and scallion sauce lends a fresh taste,” says Vinod Kumar, executive chef.
Chef Catherine Lim with the team at Chin Chin
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement
As we bite into crunchy Ma’la french beans, tossed with zha cai-Sichuan mustard tuber pickles, Sichuan peppercorn and dried red chilies, we await fried milk custard moon cake served with ice cream and sesame brittle. It’s crispy, milky, and melt-in-the-mouth within. We also enjoy heady shots of rice wine. “It is actually confinement wine for new mothers as it is very nourishing. It’s a time consuming process with superstitions attached to it. I make it with glutinous rice from Shillong, yeast from Kalimpong: Chinese technique made with Indian ingredients,” she says, adding, “My pop ups are basically storytelling. We only have oral history, but with my notes, children will know more about the soulful dishes of Hakka culture.”
Chin Chin is open daily from 12.30pm to 3pm and from 7.30pm to 11 pm. For reservation, call 9787745114. The Hakka pop up runs till August 24
Published – August 22, 2025 04:43 pm IST
