Karnataka Kolhapuri Chappal makers seek PRADA’s support

Kolhapuri chappal makers in Athani have appealed to PRADA, a Italian fashion house that is facing allegations of “stealing” design ideas from India, to set up a training centre for artisans in Athani in Belagavi district.

This follows a visit of PRADA designers to Kolhapur last week. The European company had faced criticism after one of its footwear had striking resemblance to Kolhapuri chappals. The Italian team interacted with artisans and traders in Kolhapur, but they are yet to visit Athani and surrounding villages where the footwear is traditionally made.

“Most of the production of Kolhapuri chappals happens in Karnataka, while most of the sale happens in Maharashtra. They are named after the city they are sold in, not made in. Maharashtra artisans, some of who are our relatives, have told us that PRADA designers promised them training, scholarships and commissioned production. We are seeking similar benefits too,” said Shivaraj Soudagar, who runs a Kolhapuri chappal making cluster in Athani.

Manmanth Kumar, an artisan from Madabhavi near Athani said that remunerative prices for Kolhapuri chappals would sustain the craft. “Children of most artisans are out of the craft now. They are taking up menial jobs like security guards and sweepers in big cities. If our chappals get better prices, there is a likelihood of at least young men and women coming back to take it up,” he said.

Babu Jagjivanram Karnataka leather industries development corporation (LIDKAR) is coordinating with the Italian fashion house, Rakesh Kumar, commissioner, social welfare, said. “Welfare of artisans will form the basis of all our negotiations with PRADA,” he said.

Mundaragi Nagaraju, chairman, LIDKAR, said Karnataka would not fall behind in demanding its rights to the craft. “The GI tag belongs to both Karnataka and Maharashtra. Karnataka has 30 times more chappal artisans compared to Maharashtra. While Maharashtra has only around 80 registered artisans, Karnataka has around 1,860. I have instructed officials to meet the Italian company officers in Bengaluru soon to demand that PRADA set-up a training centre to train artisans in new age designs and help their ware get better prices,” he said.

K.M. Vasundhara, managing director, LIDKAR, said Karnataka was the first to send a legal notice to PRADA following the controversy. “PRADA would not take up developmental or corporate social responsibility initiatives without involving Karnataka. They are willing to train our artisans and help them sell their produce for better prices, by commissioning craft works or branding local production. They have offered to take artisans to Italy or send their resource persons here,” she said.

She further said that officials from Karnataka and Maharashtra had held a first round of meeting with PRADA officials. “They asked for some details from us like the infrastructure being provided to artisans, compliance of child labour norms, etc. We told them our cluster facilities are of global standards. We are providing all details. A second meeting is scheduled for September,” she said.