The French connection in Chennai | Madras Day 2025

Had the French not left Madras in 1749 following the Treaty of Aix-Le-Chapelle, this article would have been written in French. They ruled us for three years in all and left practically no vestiges. But there is one archway in the Church of Madre de Deus in San Thome, which bears the date 1749 and could be of French construction. Rather miraculously, it survived demolition when the church became the Dhyana Asrama.

Also Read: This might have been in French

For almost two centuries, the relations and rivalries between Pondicherry and Madras were like those of Bangalore and Chennai in recent times. And the scales of fortune could have tilted either way. During that battle, a set of 32 granite columns in Madras had an extraordinary journey. Sculpted initially as an ornamental colonnade from the beach to Fort St. George early in the 1700s, they were taken away to Pondicherry in 1749 and erected on the beach there. The British got them back in the 1750s after their sack of the French town, and this time, erected the pillars as a square, eight on each side, facing Fort St. George. This became the pillar godown. When early in the 20^th Century, the present Assembly buildings were constructed, the pillars, as per the instructions of Governor Sir Arthus Lawley, were incorporated into the structure and there they remain.

Prior to their conquest of Madras, the French also briefly held San Thome in the 17^th Century. And so, scattered in French archives are numerous writings and observations of Madras. A compilation and translation would be of immense benefit and bring some fresh perspectives to colonial history. The best description of the San Thome Fort, which has vanished without a trace, is in French! And if you need some details from an Indian point of view of the goings-on in Madras in the 18^th Century, you need to turn to the diaries of Ananda Ranga Pillai, the Dubash of Dupleix. Sitting in Pondicherry, he had his pulse on what was happening in Madras!

While on Ranga Pillai, reading his diary seems to give a completely different interpretation to the famed Battle of Adyar in 1746, when as per colonial accounts, a disciplined but small French army was able defeat the much larger but disorganised Arcot forces. It certainly was not the rout that Orme and later historians would have us believe.

Finer aspects of life

Some of the finer aspects of life came to Madras, courtesy the French. D’Angeli was a Corsican, and so French, and he gave us a hotel to remember, which though not around anymore, was once the city’s finest. Its Parisian Garden and French cuisine were the toasts of Madras. The oldest music shop of the city, Musee Musicals, has a French name and was founded by a Frenchman —Prudhomme. Alliance Française, around since 1953, has taught the language to so many in the city. And for years, watching French films was considered the height of refinement and chic. But that was not why Irma La Douce ran for months on end in the city!

The historic Saint Gobain came to Madras in 1996, acquiring a majority stake in another historic entity — Grindwell Norton. By 2000, it had its own plant at Sriperumbudur and since then has gone on to have a pan-Indian footprint. File
| Photo Credit:
B. Velankanni Raj

French cars came to Madras via dealers such as Rajagopal Motor Works and Rane Madras, Citroën being the most popular. One of Madras’ earliest cars was a De Dion Bouton, owned by T. Namberumal Chetty. Today, Peugeot-Citroën has a technical centre in the city and under its new name Stellantis, has a manufacturing presence in Tiruvallur. The historic Saint Gobain came to Madras in 1996, acquiring a majority stake in another historic entity — Grindwell Norton. By 2000, it had its own plant at Sriperumbudur and since then has gone on to have a pan-Indian footprint.

Dupleix may have died a broken man, but his country and India have forged a relationship over the years.